So... we left the lovely Lencois and Little Charles and headed to Brasilia... big mistake!! The coach from Lencois to Seabra (where we were due to get our connecting bus) was 2 hours late (very normal for Brazil!). The next bus from Seabra wasn´t until 11.30pm (it was 1pm at this point) and we had visions of being stuck in a tiny bus station with nothing to do but play cards and eat cake (they sell cake EVERYWHERE!). Luckilly for us nothing in Brazil runs on time and out connecting bus was also late so we managed to get it - just!
Once on the bus we had some interesting toilet incidents... we´re not sure but we think the toilet on the bus was just a hole that went onto the road. There was definately light coming up from it and it felt a bit breezy!!! We also came across some interesting bubbling toilets at a service station. Kat and I left the ´banhieros´(toilets) very confused, damp and in fits of giggles!! The stars and electric storm made the 16 hour bus journey a bit more interesting than some of the others, but the coach was probably the worst we´ve been on so far and we didn´t get a wink of sleep.... the roads were so bumpy we were regularly thrown from our seats and the bus squeeked and rattled so much I thought it was doing to fall apart! All part of the experience!
So... we eventually get to Brasilia at 7am, shattered and starving! However once we arrived we realised the bus was probably a better option and booked our next bus out for 7.30pm! There´s NOTHING to do here! A big concrete grid in the middle of Brazil. Basically Milton Keynes in a microwave (no offence Kayz!) but with less to do and lots of scary people everywhere! Needless to say I don´t have mucj to report about our time here, other than to warn you never to come!!!
Friday 26 September 2008
21 - 23 September 2008: Lencois (Parque Nacional da Chapada Diamantina)
Lencois is a beautiful little town 6 hours inland from Salvador. It´s an old diamond mining town in the Chapada Diamantina region and a lovely change to the coastal towns, with it´s lush green plants and mountainous backdrop. After deciding not to venture up to the Amazon (due to time constraints, money etc) we had a few days to play with so decided to stop here on our way to Brasilia. So glad we did! Felt really safe here, a completely different Brazil to Salvador.
After a hot and sticky march up a hill with our backpacks (a lot more uphill than it needed to be thanks to my map reading!) we arrived at our cute little pousada (guest house) and booked our trip to the National Park.
Our guide for the trip, Little Charles, is possibly the craziest man I´ve ever met! He was basically a smile with legs, bouncing around all day full of energy and laughing at everything! He was great! We set off early to go to a waterfall for a swim, then spent the day visiting caves, swimming in fresh water lakes and climbing mountains. We watched a beautiful sunset from the top of Pia Inacio (basically a big mountain!). This area has a gorgeous landscape with such a rich history behind it (slave trade, mining etc) and a warm and inviting atmosphere. Great place!!
After a hot and sticky march up a hill with our backpacks (a lot more uphill than it needed to be thanks to my map reading!) we arrived at our cute little pousada (guest house) and booked our trip to the National Park.
Our guide for the trip, Little Charles, is possibly the craziest man I´ve ever met! He was basically a smile with legs, bouncing around all day full of energy and laughing at everything! He was great! We set off early to go to a waterfall for a swim, then spent the day visiting caves, swimming in fresh water lakes and climbing mountains. We watched a beautiful sunset from the top of Pia Inacio (basically a big mountain!). This area has a gorgeous landscape with such a rich history behind it (slave trade, mining etc) and a warm and inviting atmosphere. Great place!!
18 - 21 September 2008: Salvador
Salvador is a crazy place! I was told before arriving that it evokes a lot of emotions and it really does... One minute you´re happily joining in with/watching capoeira in the street, the next you feel sad and guilty as children beg for money and food, then you get carried away samba dancing, become intruiged by the local characters, in awe of the baroque architectiture... and all the while completed worried and paranoid that you´re going to get pick-pocketed or mugged.
It was Rachel´s birthday whilst we were here so we enjoyed numerous caipirinhas, a huge dinner (portion sizes here are gigantic... we still haven´t quite got to grips with how much to order!), and tried a crazy local drink that is made from cloves and tastes like Christmas! We spent most of time in the historic centre, wandering round cobbled streets, visiting churches (one for each day of the year apparently, although we only managed 3!), going to markets and chatting to locals. The city is split into 2 halves and you have to get a lift from the upper city to the lower city - crazy!!
Unfortunately we didn´t get to the beach whilst we were here as the day we´d set aside for that turned into the wettest day ever and it was all we could do not to drown! Oh well... I´m sure we´ll come across a few more beaches at some point on our travels!
I can now add samba to the list of dances that I have learnt (not quite mastered yet though!) and my portuguese is definately improving. I´m becoming partial to Brazilian coffee - strong and sweet - but am getting a tad bored of their breakfasts... bread rolls, cake and fruit. I´d give anything for a nice bowl of cereal and a cuppa!!
It was Rachel´s birthday whilst we were here so we enjoyed numerous caipirinhas, a huge dinner (portion sizes here are gigantic... we still haven´t quite got to grips with how much to order!), and tried a crazy local drink that is made from cloves and tastes like Christmas! We spent most of time in the historic centre, wandering round cobbled streets, visiting churches (one for each day of the year apparently, although we only managed 3!), going to markets and chatting to locals. The city is split into 2 halves and you have to get a lift from the upper city to the lower city - crazy!!
Unfortunately we didn´t get to the beach whilst we were here as the day we´d set aside for that turned into the wettest day ever and it was all we could do not to drown! Oh well... I´m sure we´ll come across a few more beaches at some point on our travels!
I can now add samba to the list of dances that I have learnt (not quite mastered yet though!) and my portuguese is definately improving. I´m becoming partial to Brazilian coffee - strong and sweet - but am getting a tad bored of their breakfasts... bread rolls, cake and fruit. I´d give anything for a nice bowl of cereal and a cuppa!!
16 - 18 September 2008: Itacare
Itacare has some stunning beaches and rainforest, but unfortunately it was the first place we felt unsafe and after falling in love with Arraial D´Ajuda I was a little disappointed. As soon as we arrived at the hostel we were warned not to go to certain areas after 4pm as they´re dangerous, especially for girls, and not to take anything valuable to the beaches with us at any point. That said we still had a great time, enjoying the area during the day and staying in at night chilling out in hammocks, cooking dinner and drinking cheap wine!
So... the beaches... they´re gorgeous! 5 bays all with white sand, palm trees, bright blue water and a back drop of tropical rainforest. The first 4 are easily accessible but you can only get to the 5th bay by trekking through the rainforest. I hadn´t planned on venturing that far but, after meeting some locals I was persuaded and found myself in the middle of the rainforest in a bikini, sarong and flip flops! Saw my first snake, balanced in logs to get over rivers and had a generally bizarre day! Also practiced capoeira on the beach and managed to get the BIGGEST bruise on my butt cheek when attemping, and failing to do a back flip!! Ow!!
So all in all we had a good time in Itacare. It´s not somewhere I´d necessarily come back to but has definately shown another side to Brazil and has made me more safety concious. Next stop Salvador...
So... the beaches... they´re gorgeous! 5 bays all with white sand, palm trees, bright blue water and a back drop of tropical rainforest. The first 4 are easily accessible but you can only get to the 5th bay by trekking through the rainforest. I hadn´t planned on venturing that far but, after meeting some locals I was persuaded and found myself in the middle of the rainforest in a bikini, sarong and flip flops! Saw my first snake, balanced in logs to get over rivers and had a generally bizarre day! Also practiced capoeira on the beach and managed to get the BIGGEST bruise on my butt cheek when attemping, and failing to do a back flip!! Ow!!
So all in all we had a good time in Itacare. It´s not somewhere I´d necessarily come back to but has definately shown another side to Brazil and has made me more safety concious. Next stop Salvador...
Monday 15 September 2008
13 - 16 September 2008: Arraial d´Ajuda
I have officially fallen in love with Brazil! Arraial d´Ajuda is the most gorgeous little town... cobbled streets, colourful buildings, fairy lights in the trees, live music being played at all hours, hippies everywhere, capoeira and dance. It´s so quirky! I can´t even remeber what made us come here but I´m glad we did, if I had to describe myself as a place I think it would be here!!
It´s not peak season so is pretty quiet on the tourist front but I think that´s why I like it. Yesterday whilst on one of my wanders I met a group of locals on the beach playing capoeira. We got chatting (with my rather poor, but slowly improving, portuguese on one guy trying to translate) and it turned out 2 of them were lambada teachers so the girls and i spent last night in a nearby neighbourhood learning lambada and dancing the night away. The actual residential area of Arraial d´Ajuda is very run down with 30% unemployment rate and a lot of recent political scandal. No tourists ever go out of the centre so it was a real taste of ´true Brazil´, and a real privilage to be invited. No one spoke English, except for the guy who I met on the beach, and I felt very ignorant not knowing much portuguese but no one seemed to care and everyone was so welcoming.
After learning the lambada and dancing till my legs felt like jelly we went to a small square in the centre of town and continued to dance to a live band. My feet are battered and bruised but it was well worth it! The Brazilian´s passion for dance completely swept me away and I definately want to return to this area and learn the lambada properly. I love that nothing out here has anything to do with money. Music is played because they love it, people dance because they love it, no money changes hands and no one is trying to make a profit from what they are doing. I really could get used to this way of life.
Unfortunately we have to head off tomorrow and continue up the coast, but I´ve heard great things about our next stop so fingers crossed it won´t disappoint. I´ll keep you posted...
It´s not peak season so is pretty quiet on the tourist front but I think that´s why I like it. Yesterday whilst on one of my wanders I met a group of locals on the beach playing capoeira. We got chatting (with my rather poor, but slowly improving, portuguese on one guy trying to translate) and it turned out 2 of them were lambada teachers so the girls and i spent last night in a nearby neighbourhood learning lambada and dancing the night away. The actual residential area of Arraial d´Ajuda is very run down with 30% unemployment rate and a lot of recent political scandal. No tourists ever go out of the centre so it was a real taste of ´true Brazil´, and a real privilage to be invited. No one spoke English, except for the guy who I met on the beach, and I felt very ignorant not knowing much portuguese but no one seemed to care and everyone was so welcoming.
After learning the lambada and dancing till my legs felt like jelly we went to a small square in the centre of town and continued to dance to a live band. My feet are battered and bruised but it was well worth it! The Brazilian´s passion for dance completely swept me away and I definately want to return to this area and learn the lambada properly. I love that nothing out here has anything to do with money. Music is played because they love it, people dance because they love it, no money changes hands and no one is trying to make a profit from what they are doing. I really could get used to this way of life.
Unfortunately we have to head off tomorrow and continue up the coast, but I´ve heard great things about our next stop so fingers crossed it won´t disappoint. I´ll keep you posted...
Saturday 13 September 2008
8 - 12 September 2008: Rio de Janeiro
Wow!!!! 5 days in and I´m having the time of my life. Rio is an amazing city. Although the plane was delayed, the man sitting across from us got peed on by his 2 year old daughter and we arrived to 2 days of terrential rain the energy of the city more than made up for it. Our hostel, The Mango Tree, was situated in Ipenema just one street away from the beach. It´s bright white and blue exterior, swinging hammocks, free buffet breakfast and friendly staff and guests made it the perfect first stay for the trip.
So.... what we have been up to in Rio?
We spent time visiting 2 of the 750 favelas in Rio (yes 750!). It was a hugely eye opening and educational experience. Our guide, Miranda, explained the history of favelas, how they came to be and the way life is for people living in them. Subject to popular belief only 10% of people living in favelas are involved in organised crime and drugs. The majority of people work within the main Rio City, but are paid so little that they cannot afford to move away from the favelas. And strangely enough, due to the organised crime favelas can actually be safer places to be than the main city, where the police are corrupt and robberies and pick pocketing is common. In favelas it is an unwritten rule that no one robs from anyone - the only crime taking place is the crime that is organised.
Whilst in a favela called Vila Canoas we spent some time in a small school, Para Ti. The school is a non government organisation that was set up in 1994 to help get the kids of the favela off the streets and away from crime. A total of 350 children attend the school at various times throughout the week - the children I met were absolutlely gorgeous. So happy and lively and fascinated with digital cameras!!
Watching the Brazil vs Bolivia world cup qualifying match was great fun! Seated in amongst the Brazilian crowd we had out faces painted and learnt the chants. We also learnt that all Brazilians hate Ronaldinhio and love Robhino (not sure if I spelt the names right???!). I did feel sorry for the Bolivian fans though... I counted 10 in the whole stadium, very proudly holding up their flag!
We have, of course, also spent time on Ipenema beach and yesterday morning Rachael (a fellow traveller who we have adopted!) and I went for a run along a beach and did yoga on the cliff top before breakfast. The wind was so strong I thought I might end up in the sea rather than looking at it so decided against doing the one legged balances! It was so interesting watching the city come to life.
Visiting Cristo Redentor (Christ Redeemer or The Big JC as we like to call him) was amazing... For the first two days he wasn´t visible because of the low cloud so I was so excited to finally see the famous statue... and even more excited to be getting the old cog train (the same one used to transport the building materials when making the statue) up the mountain to see it.
The most ´wow´ moment so far was Thursday evening. I had one of those ´I can´t believe I´m actually here´ moments. We had just hiked up the side of Morro da Urca (taking a few wrong turns and making the walk last a lot longer than it needed to) and reached the summit - a little sweaty and red cheeked - just in time to watch the sunset behind Cristo Redentor. Stunning. Beautiful. Breathtaking. So Kat, Melissa, Rachael and I sat atop a mountain, watching the sunset and sipping (very strong) caipirinhas. Not a bad way to spend an evening!!
We have now left Rio de Janeiro and arrived at Arraial d´Ajuda, a small bohemian village on the coast between Rio and Salvador. It was a long 18 hour bus journey here... I´ll let you know in a few days if it was worth it!
Bye for now xxx
So.... what we have been up to in Rio?
We spent time visiting 2 of the 750 favelas in Rio (yes 750!). It was a hugely eye opening and educational experience. Our guide, Miranda, explained the history of favelas, how they came to be and the way life is for people living in them. Subject to popular belief only 10% of people living in favelas are involved in organised crime and drugs. The majority of people work within the main Rio City, but are paid so little that they cannot afford to move away from the favelas. And strangely enough, due to the organised crime favelas can actually be safer places to be than the main city, where the police are corrupt and robberies and pick pocketing is common. In favelas it is an unwritten rule that no one robs from anyone - the only crime taking place is the crime that is organised.
Whilst in a favela called Vila Canoas we spent some time in a small school, Para Ti. The school is a non government organisation that was set up in 1994 to help get the kids of the favela off the streets and away from crime. A total of 350 children attend the school at various times throughout the week - the children I met were absolutlely gorgeous. So happy and lively and fascinated with digital cameras!!
Watching the Brazil vs Bolivia world cup qualifying match was great fun! Seated in amongst the Brazilian crowd we had out faces painted and learnt the chants. We also learnt that all Brazilians hate Ronaldinhio and love Robhino (not sure if I spelt the names right???!). I did feel sorry for the Bolivian fans though... I counted 10 in the whole stadium, very proudly holding up their flag!
We have, of course, also spent time on Ipenema beach and yesterday morning Rachael (a fellow traveller who we have adopted!) and I went for a run along a beach and did yoga on the cliff top before breakfast. The wind was so strong I thought I might end up in the sea rather than looking at it so decided against doing the one legged balances! It was so interesting watching the city come to life.
Visiting Cristo Redentor (Christ Redeemer or The Big JC as we like to call him) was amazing... For the first two days he wasn´t visible because of the low cloud so I was so excited to finally see the famous statue... and even more excited to be getting the old cog train (the same one used to transport the building materials when making the statue) up the mountain to see it.
The most ´wow´ moment so far was Thursday evening. I had one of those ´I can´t believe I´m actually here´ moments. We had just hiked up the side of Morro da Urca (taking a few wrong turns and making the walk last a lot longer than it needed to) and reached the summit - a little sweaty and red cheeked - just in time to watch the sunset behind Cristo Redentor. Stunning. Beautiful. Breathtaking. So Kat, Melissa, Rachael and I sat atop a mountain, watching the sunset and sipping (very strong) caipirinhas. Not a bad way to spend an evening!!
We have now left Rio de Janeiro and arrived at Arraial d´Ajuda, a small bohemian village on the coast between Rio and Salvador. It was a long 18 hour bus journey here... I´ll let you know in a few days if it was worth it!
Bye for now xxx
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