25 - 30 September 2008: Campo Grande / Pantanal Jungle Stay

We arrived in Campo Grande tired, smelly and hungry! After trailing the streets for somewhere to eat (Brazilian's eat their main meal at lunchtime so not many restaurants are open in the evening) we found ourselves in a stange little place with dirty table cloths and no menu... the waiter (or should I say random man that came to our table) reeled off lots of words, none of which we understood except for "beefy", so we smiled and nodded at that and waited to see what would appear. The next thing we know numerous plates turned up piled high with salad, rice, chips, beans and beef with fried eggs on top. And all for about £2.50 each!

From Campo Grande we set off on a 4 day trek to the Pantanal (Huge wetland half the size of France!). We stayed in a 'rustic' jungle lodge where the water out of the tap was brown, showers were a cold drizzle, mice lived on the roof and were so noisy I swear they spent the nights wrestling with each other, and we shared our room with frogs, spiders and cockroaches. It was great!! We spent our time here going on boat trips, trekking through the jungle, going on a jeep safari, piranha fishing (and eating our catch for lunch!), alligator spotting, tubing down the river, horse riding and just generally getting close to nature! In fact we got a bit too close to alligators for my liking... I wouldn't even have needed to stretch my arm out to touch them!! The wildlife and biodiversity here is simply stunning. Seeing monkeys, armadillos, capybaras, alligators, caimens, macaws, toucans, giant otters and an amazing variety of colourful birds was a daily treat!

Our guide, Pipino (born and bred in the Pantanal), was slightly strange but very impressive with the animals.... he was like Dr Dolittle, making crazy noises and literally speaking to the animals! The noise made by the howler monkeys was incredible. SO loud! Not quite so impressive when they woke us up at 4am though!

Our last night in the Pantanal was definately one that I will never ever forget. A group of us were enjoying a beer round the campfire by the side of the river when Pipino and his cousin, Marcello, decided it would be a good idea to go swimming (in the same river that we'd spent the day piranha fishing and alligator spotting in!). Not to be beaten by the locals Kat and I followed suit... Splashing around in the dark with no idea what animals were around was amazing! Later, whilst drying out by the campfire the most incredible storm started. We could see it long before we could hear or feel it. The lightning was incredible and lit up not only the sky but everything. Every few minutes it was so bright that you would've sworn it was daytime. Then the wind came, almost knocking us over and sending the campfire flying, and then came the rain. Huge, heavy drops that soaked us through within a few seconds. Rather than retire to the rickety skack we were staying in I decided to enjoy the fresh air and dance in the rain. Unforgettable.

I really can't put in words what an incredible time I had and I think it's safe to say the Pantanal is one experience that will stay with me forever.